Posts for Tag : fall

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FALL GARDEN MAINTENANCE TASKS

No plant is more synonymous with the fall season than mums! We have them in white, red, pink, orange, yellow, and we might even get other colors in later this season.

 

Plants become aware that fall is approaching well before humans. For those of us who work with plants, we think of fall as beginning well before coffee shops start offering pumpkin spice lattes. Best to get started on your fall gardening tasks immediately!

 

 

Get leaves up as soon as they start falling

The process of leaves falling from trees is called abscission and it begins before the leaf actually falls from the tree, happening in three steps: remobilization, protective layer formation, and detachment. During remobilization, the tree extracts nutrients from chlorophyll, degrading it, and causing the leaf to change color by leaving carotenoids (orange, red, and yellow plant pigments) in place but destroying the chlorophyll. Nitrogen in particular is often bound up in chlorophyll and the tree needs that nitrogen to get through the winter.

 

This year we are carrying two leaf rakes, a professional grade, by Hisco, just like the rakes our landscape crews use, and a vintage style but durable rake with a stained wood handle that is sure to become a family heirloom.

 

There are two common misconceptions among gardeners: 1. Plants don’t need nitrogen in winter and any nitrogen they get will cause them to put on new growth and become vulnerable to winter cold; 2. Leaves allowed to decompose in winter will become a good source of nitrogen in the spring.

 

Bright Lights Swiss Chard, a nice addition to any fall container arrangement or seasonal bed planting configuration

First, though high nitrogen inorganic fertilizer with no time release component in late summer or early fall may cause a burst of new growth in some circumstances, the concern is usually overblown. Winters in Memphis tend to be mild and approach gradually, and plants need nitrogen in varying amounts year round. Second, as we learned when looking at the process of abscission, much of the nitrogen is sucked out of leaves by the plant before leaf drop.

 

Accordingly, allowing leaves to sit under trees and around shrubs all winter, year after year, as they do in forests, is not good for the plants. To see what happens in the “natural state,” walk through The Old Forest in Overton Park and notice how a large percentage of plants in an actual forest are in various states of deterioration and decay. Forests survive, often, more by their prolific seed drop rather than because conditions are ideal for individual plants. New plants are ever replacing old plants, giving the illusion of consistency.

 

So, start getting up leaves as soon as they start falling! Blow or rake leaves out of beds regularly, maybe onto your turf grass, and then run over them with a lawn mower, before the leaf volume gets so great that it will choke your mower. Then bag the shredded leaves and place them curbside for municipal pickup (shredding them first will reduce the number of bags needed tremendously and speed their decomposition in a landfill) or put them in your compost bin.  Remember, though leaves alone are poor sources of nitrogen, composted leaf mulch, mixed with other compost, can be good spring fertilizer or a component for a custom soil mix.

A small moss planter and a package of napkins from Urban Earth, with a few small spoon gourds grown from our Baker Creek Seedsline makes for a perfect host or hostess gift!

 

Allowing leaves to accumulate excessively on top of the lawn will create the perfect breeding ground for fungal problems. Raise the mower blades to 3-4 inches in late summer and let the mower suck up some leaves and leave a small amount of shredded leaves in the turf.

 

Plant fall annuals for color

It would be unwise to plant an entire yard in annuals, given the expense. But, every yard should have designated spots for seasonal color.  Some of the best annuals for planting in the fall include pansies, violas, mums, snapdragons, swiss chard, and kale. Urban Earth Garden Center has a full selection in stock right now.  To see more of what’s in stock, check out our slideshows on our facebook page, Urban Earth by Greg Touliatos.

 

To really learn about fall color, join us for a free class on the subject (“Fall Annuals and Fall Bulbs for Your Garden”) by David Levy, Greg Touliatos, and John Jennings on Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 1pm.

 

Pro-tip: white blooms show up better outdoors at night than any other color, perfect for evening entertaining.

Put down a granular pre-emergent

Put down a granular pre-emergent in both the spring and fall to stop weed seed from germinating. We like Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed & Grass Stopper Containing Dimension. One bag will cover up to 3,500 square feet of planting beds or up to 5,000 square feet of turf. Though it is not a cure-all, it will form a chemical barrier that will prevent a large percentage of weed seed from germinating and becoming fall annual weeds.  Preen is the most widely known pre-emergent among consumers but we like this product better.

 

Put down seed for cool season plants

Apply fescue seed, winter rye seed, or “fall cover crop” mixes to your turf in September and October for best results.

 

Fescue is often described as a shade grass but a more accurate description is a cool season grass that does well under the canopies of deciduous trees. Zoysia and Bermuda are warm season grasses, meaning that they engage in photosynthesis in the spring and summer and go dormant when temperatures drop. In contrast, cool season grasses, like fescue, engage in photosynthesis, coming alive, after leaf drop. The fact that fescue is not a “shade grass” is important because it would not do well under the canopies of evergreen trees. (Note: Creeping red fescue is a genuine shade grass but is not recommended because it has zero tread tolerance; even a squirrel walking across it will kill it, the reason we don’t carry the “deep shade” fescue mixes some other garden centers carry.)

 

This year we are carrying a variety of cool season seed offerings, including Five Star Fescue in various sized bags, a fall cover crop mix of annual clover and rye, fall and winter forage crops for hunting plots, and duranna white clover, just to name a few.

Also, remember that fescue is only barely tolerant of our heat.  Hence, it thins in late summer and needs to be over-seeded at least once per year, every fall, and preferably again in late winter, around the time crocuses start coming up or shortly thereafter, to create a lush look.  How to install fescue is beyond the scope of this article but come see us and we will be happy to explain it!

 

Fall cover crops are plants that do well in cooler temperatures and are special because of their nitrogen fixing qualities. They are generally, with some exceptions, annuals, meaning they won’t come back again after their season completes.

 

By nitrogen fixing qualities, we mean that they have a symbiotic relationship with certain bacteria in the soil that allows the plants to pull nitrogen directly from the ambient air for their benefit and the benefit of plants around them, releasing the nutrients into the soil when they die at the end of their season. These plants include legumes  like red clover (annual) or durana white clover (perennial), both of which we carry as stand-alone products and in mixes.  For a better understanding of how to use fall cover crops to improve the look and health of your turf, please visit our store.

 

Plant bulbs

Fall is the time to plant bulbs like daffodils, crocus, and tulips for winter to spring beauty. This year, we will be receiving our bulb order from Devroomen, one of the best suppliers of bulbs in the world, in the first or second week of October. Although you can install bulbs well into January or even, in some cases, February, if you wait too long after they arrive at our store to buy them, you will have fewer choices. They go quickly!

 

This author likes to install bulbs the Friday, Saturday, or Sunday after Thanksgiving as a family activity. Installing bulbs too early can mean that they start coming up too early, making the new growth vulnerable to the destructive effects of a hard freeze. After Thanksgiving, the chances of a false spring are much less.

Notice how the yellow daffodils against the green fescue and rye mix break up an otherwise bleak winter landscape along this driveway in midtown Memphis, Tennessee.

Generally, in Memphis, daffodils and crocuses are perennials, meaning that they will come back every year, while tulips are annuals.  Though daffodils and crocuses are technically perennials here, they have an ephemeral nature in that they don’t seem to come back every year.  In my experience, in any given year, 80% of my daffodils will pop up and bloom, but it won’t be the same 80% each year. Crocuses are similar in that regard.

 

Crocuses, my favorite bulbs, are often overlooked as options by gardeners.  But, they do well under the canopies of trees, whereas daffodils really need more sunlight to come back up again in future years. Further, crocuses come up earlier than most everything else, often seen pushing up through ice and snow as a beautiful harbinger of spring.  Though the metaphor may be nearly cliche, gardeners are like wine drinkers.  New wine drinkers like sweet and fruity wines, like a pinot grigiot, sauvignon blanc, or even an after dinner sweet port.  But, as they mature in their appreciation of wine, they move onto the cabernets and the merlots.

Though garden trowels or soil knives can work fine for planting bulbs, many gardeners find specialty bulb planters like this Dewitt Bulb Planter
that we carry, made in Holland, with a lifetime warranty, very helpful.

Bulbs are like that in that new gardeners tend to gravitate towards the tulips, mere annuals in our climate, but bright and showy, while crocuses are generally something appreciated by more experienced gardeners for their subtlety.

 

One thing to keep in mind about bulbs is that the photosynthates absorbed by the plants coming up from the bulbs this year determine their success in the following year. So, if you plant them in too little sunlight, they will likely come up fine the first year but will perform poorly, if at all, the following year. For the same reason, it is important not to cut your plants back after the blooms are spent until the plants themselves begin to deteriorate to give the leaves as much time as possible to create and store photosynthates (a nutrient that can only be made when light is being absorbed) to ensure a good outcome for the next year.

 

The trick to adding color to a winter landscape is not to try too hard. Learn to appreciate the branch structure and texture of naked trees, Natchez Crepe Myrtles in this case, a tree known for its “cinamon” (exfoliating bark), but add little splashes of color to complement and balance it. You cannot create summer in January in Memphis!

Remember, all bulbs require a certain number of hours of chill time in order to be successful. All of our bulbs come pre-chilled. It is for this reason, perhaps, that after mild winters in Memphis, fewer daffodils and crocuses come up but come back in subsequent cooler years.

 

Between the time that you buy bulbs and the time you plant them, keep them in a paper sack in a cool dark place, ideally at a temperature below 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

Plant trees and shrubs

Nothing beats a Ginkgo tree for consistent fall leaf color.

Although good gardeners can plant trees and woody shrubs any time of the year, there is no question that the best time to do so in Memphis is the fall. Temperatures are moderating, slowing soil evaporation, and the rainy season is beginning, giving new plants, which always begin with shallow root systems, a much better chance of survival and allowing them to develop a wide and deep root system before Memphis’s drought period in July and August. Further, many plants go into dormancy, a self-protective mode where the focus of their growth shifts from their canopies above ground to their root systems below ground, meaning that they develop root systems faster in the fall than they would any other time of the year.

 

But beware, a well-managed nursery should not be too soft with its plants in winter.  All plant nurseries wrap their greenhouses in plastic in winter, but good nursery managers are also careful to properly harden their plants off. Tender new canopy growth in plants is a point of vulnerability when a freeze hits. So, if you buy plants from a garden center that has kept its greenhouses too warm, causing them to put on lots of pretty new growth, you may have a dead plant a few weeks after you put it in the ground. Hardening off plants and keeping them hardened off until winter has ended is an art, a process

Camellia sasanqua ‘Yuletide’ blooms around Thanksgiving in Memphis.

Greg Touliatos personally supervises and monitors at Urban Earth Garden Center, entrusting it to no one else.

 

For ideas on trees to plant in your yard, see the article, “Best Trees for Memphis,” or, better yet, come talk to us in the store and we can look at the options together.  For best results, email the street address and photos of the area where you want to plant ahead of time to john@urbanearthmemphis.com.  If you there is a plant you want but think we might not have in stock, email us to request it.  Be sure to put “Plant Request” in the subject line and we will confirm receipt of your email and let you know if and when we are able to find it, by email.

 

Transplant trees and woody shrubs

For the same reason fall is the best time to install woody plants in Memphis, it is really the only time to transplant woody plants in Memphis. The very act of transplanting causes significant damage to a plant’s root system, reducing its ability to take up moisture and nutrients from the soil. Transplanting is too complicated in scope to address this article, but please visit us for advice on transplanting.

 

In particular, this author recommends that you use Fertilome Root Stimulator. Fertilome Root Stimulator contains auxins, plant hormones that help stimulate new root development, and other nutrients needed for plants with damaged root systems. Be careful using other fertilizers when transplanting, because recently transplanted specimen are particularly vulnerable to burn from excessive fertilization.

 

Fertilize

Apply time release 12-6-6 fertilizer in spring and fall, like the Hi-Yield Growers Special that we carry, or an organic alternative like Happy Frog by Fox Farm.  Apply soil sulfur to all of your woody plants, except boxwoods, especially azaleas, hydrangeas, and hollies. (Note: If you are regularly using Happy Frog Fertilizer for Acid Loving Plants there is no need to apply soil sulfur, in my view.) Apply lime to boxwoods every other year or so to raise the ph, a measure of soil alkalinity or acidity, since boxwoods are about the only plant commonly used in ornamental beds in Memphis that likes a more alkaline soil, preferring a slightly higher ph than other woody plants. Let us guide you in the specifics of applying these products when you visit.

Urban Earth Garden Center is proud to carry Fox Farm Products, including their Happy Frog line of organic fertilizers.

Prune

Many gardeners are shy about pruning or trimming plants too late in the year. Pruning and trimming can stimulate new growth, and as already explained above, new growth makes the entire plant more vulnerable to cold damage. But, if you’re in the garden already, in Memphis, it won’t hurt and may very likely help to do a little careful pruning. At least prune any deadwood out of your woody plants, selectively thin plants with dense growth by removing branches, and prune a third of the canopies of your roses back in the fall (You will prune another third of the canopy of your roses back right after Christmas, before the winter winds get especially strong). Do not do any wholesale shearing with a power trimmer to shape as this will definitely stimulate new growth!

 

Urban Earth has an excellent selection of the best tools, including the famous Felco F2.

When you prune, always use high quality bypass pruners and be sure to disinfect your pruners between plants with a 10% solution of bleach to prevent disease spread.  We carry the industry gold standard for bypass pruners, Felco, but we also carry less expensive but still excellent models by Corona and Tierra Pro. Anvil pruners, which we do not sell at Urban Earth, tend to mash the branches rather than cleanly cutting through them, whereas bypass pruners make healthy cuts with fewer entrance points for plant disease. (I have yet to come across a single good reason for a gardener to own a pair of anvil pruners.) Make sure your pruners are sharp too for the cleanest cuts. If you’re not sure about the pruners you currently own, come see us for guidance and advice in learning to maintain them.

 

Decorate

Fall is a great time to go full on Martha Stewart!  It’s easy to cut flowers in the spring and summer and stick them in water. But, fall both requires and allows for more creativity. For more information, google “creating fall centerpieces for tables” and a wealth of information will come up. One of our employees, Martha “Martha Stewart” Garriott, is particularly talented and will be happy to help you pick out the perfect vessel and find seasonally appropriate cuttings and elements to complete the centerpiece.

This fall centerpiece was a joint effort by the author and Martha Garriott, a sales associate at Urban Earth and a Master Gardener. It is simply a combination of cuttings from plants on the premises, and the earliest leaf droppings from trees like Sarah’s Favorite Crepe Myrtle, a Wildfire Black Gum, a Regal Prince Oak, an Autumn Glory Ginkgo, and a Kousa Dogwood.  Notice, also, the small spoon gourds, grown by the author’s son, Henry.

 

Learn

Fall is a great time to read, study, and sharpen your knowledge as a gardener. And, there is no better

If a Memphis home owner owns only one garden book, it should be The Midsouth Garden Guide.

place than Urban Earth Garden Center to help you along this journey. We have a clever selection of books, knowledgeable employees who give good advice, a regular schedule of free classes in our education annex, outside speakers, and hands on assistance and guidance. Follow us on Facebook to find our seminar schedule or look for it in our blog section, updated a few times each year; read our blog; subscribe to and read our emailed newsletter by emailing info@urbanearthmemphis.com and requesting that you be added or messaging us on our fb page; and email me with questions and photos (john@urbanearthmemphis.com).

 

John Jennings, Author and Manager

The author, John Jennings has been manager of Urban Earth Garden Center since June 1, 2016.  Before that he was a self-employed landscaper for 8 years, having previously worked as both a real estate lawyer and a drug counselor in previous lives.  He grew up in the South Carolina low country, learning to garden in the fertile soil of Copes Island, a small barrier island near Beaufort, in Jasper County, the famed land of Pat Conroy.  He was taught the basics of planting by his step-father, Wade, his mother, Melissa, and his father, Karl.  Though both of his parents grew up in Memphis, and he spent vacations visiting his maternal grandparents, Richard and Diana Allen in Memphis, he did not become a resident of the city until he finished college in 1994.  He left South Carolina at the age of 14 to attend The McCallie School for Boys, in ChattanoogaTennessee, graduating in 1990, before getting a degree in English from the University of Richmond, in Virgina,in 1994, finally graduating from the University of Memphis Law School in 1997.  He has a 10 year old son named Henry.  If you read this blog entry, please email the author at john@urbanearthmemphis.com and let him know what you think.  

 

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BEST TREES FOR MEMPHIS

THE BEST TREES FOR MEMPHIS

(AN ODE TO COLUMNAR DECIDUOUS TREES)

 

Though a good horticulturalist can be successful planting any time of the year, the best time to plant trees and other woody plants in the Memphis area is in the fall.  So, it’s time to start contemplating what you’re going to plant this fall! (This is the first of a series of blog posts I’ll be doing on fall gardening activities over the next few months.)

Columnar European Hornbeam in a bed designed by Jesse Howley and installed by the author at the home of Tom and Janet Wyatt on Angelus Street in midtown Memphis, Tennessee.

 

Trees are categorized in many ways. Aesthetically, trees are most often categorized by size, shape, and whether they are deciduous (meaning they lose their leaves in winter) or evergreen (meaning they keep leaves year round). The size categories are usually small, medium, or large, defined best here, https://www.arborday.org/trees/righttreeandplace/size.cfm, while canopy shape is defined best here: https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP531.pdf.  The tree sizes and shape I advocate most for in urban environments, which usually have smaller yards, are small to medium sized trees with columnar shaped (also called fastigiated) canopies.

This row of arborvitae was planted at a private residence by Greg Touliatos & Associates, Inc. as part of a comprehensive landscape design and installation project.

 

Columnar trees have a strong vertical form and are often six feet or less in width.  The most well-known columnar tree forms are probably arborvitae and Italian cypress, both commonly associated with Mediterranean landscapes but widely used in Memphis.  For example, Presbyterian Day School has a row of small arborvitae, about 8 feet tall, on the south end of one of its playing fields bordering Central Avenue.  Then, there is a row of 3 very tall Italian cypresses, over 30 feet, in midtown on Evergreen, a couple of blocks north of India Palace Restaurant.  These two examples are both evergreen.

These 3 Italian Cypresses have been in midtown for years and have done well, though likely more were planted in the beginning.

 

But, lesser known, and I think under-utilized until the last few years in Memphis are columnar deciduous trees.  We often think only of deciduous trees as large shade trees, except perhaps for Japanese and other maples or the widely over-planted crepe myrtles.  Customers rarely specifically request a columnar deciduous tree at our nursery.  In fact, just as new wine drinkers often prefer sweet white wines before maturing into cabernets and merlots, inexperienced gardeners gravitate towards things that are covered in blooms part of the year or evergreen, preferably both, fearing the bareness of deciduous plants in winter and not appreciating the texture of mere leaves without flowers.

 

One big advantage of deciduous columnar trees over evergreens like arborvitae and Italian cypress is that they tend to have fewer problems.  The evergreens prefer the subtly different Mediterranean climate rather than ours, are sensitive to both under-watering and over-watering, and too often get bag worms and other pests, particularly in early summer.  In contrast, well-planted deciduous columnars are relatively maintenance and pest free, needing only the occasional pruning of dead branches.  Without leaves in winter, a sudden ice storm is less likely to damage them too.  Most importantly, as a gardener matures in her appreciation of the life cycle of plants, she comes to appreciate the changing shape and color of leaves over the course of spring, summer, and fall, and the architecture of bare branches in winter.

Group of Slender Silhouette Sweetgum and Emerald Arborvitae trees right after delivery to Urban Earth in Winter.

He who marvels at the beauty of the world in summer will find equal cause for wonder and admiration in winter…. In winter the stars seem to have rekindled their fires, the moon achieves a fuller triumph, and the heavens wear a look of a more exalted simplicity. ~John Burroughs

 

So, increasingly, the landscape industry and home owners are realizing that medium and small deciduous trees in general, including columnar cultivars, are better alternatives than columnar evergreens.  Moreover, they are realizing that smaller trees are better for the close confines of modern urban environments than the old standard unimproved shade trees like oaks, elms, gingkoes, and tulip poplars that were widely planted in Memphis during the twentieth century.  Indeed, if you have ever had to contend with a large old specimen of a deciduous shade tree too close to your home, you know how challenging they can be.  The roots can rip apart foundations and sewer pipes.  Leaf removal under the canopies of large old deciduous trees in the fall can be an enormous undertaking.  And, worst of all, falling limbs or entire falling trees, weighing tens of thousands of pounds, can destroy property and cause human injury or death.  To make matters worse, tree removal of a large deciduous tree that has been diagnosed as too unsafe to keep in place, can cost $15,000 or more.

Fallen tree in midtown after a recent wind storm in 2017.

 

Consider, for example, a mature oak tree, inexplicably planted 15 feet from the rear of an east-facing home.  The tree has been diagnosed with an incurable fungal problem, its roots have largely rotted, and its leaves are only green because of stored photosynthates.  It remains erect only because it weighs 70,000 pounds and is like a nail whose point has been tapped into the ground.  Eventually, because this is Memphis, a straight-line wind will come along from the west, push the tree over, and flatten the home, destroying it and everything in it.  A wise homeowner, faced with this information may feel they have no choice but to pay to remove it at a cost of as much as 10% or more of the home’s value, enough money to buy a new car or increase the size of the home.  Likely, this tree was not “planted” but rather was a volunteer, allowed, maybe even encouraged by a new homeowner decades before, a homeowner who likely felt very proud that he had not had to pay for it, regarding others who had designed intentional landscapes as spendthrifts.

 

But then, there are those who over-react to this problem, removing all trees from their property, leaving only foundation shrubbery and turf grass, with no shade, like the homes in new mid to low grade subdivisions.  This approach has its problems too.  There is no shade without trees so more energy is needed to cool the home in the summer and the benefit of deciduous trees that mitigate carbon emissions is entirely lost.  Further, for whatever reason, humans find the close proximity of trees comforting.  They have an inherent attraction for us and we do not find a landscape wholly devoid of them attractive or as appealing as a yard with one or more well-placed trees on it.

 

Hence, the arbor market is now producing more manageable small and medium-sized columnar cultivars of old standbys.  They tuck nicely into courtyards, make for beautiful allees, and form inspiring focal points in corner beds.  For greater impact they can even be clustered in trios! Here are some of my favorites from our growers:

 

Allés of European Hornbeams designed by Dale Skaggs at The Dixon Gallery and Garden in Memphis, Tennessee.

 

 

Columnar European Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus fastigiata) has been around for a while, the Frans Fontaine cultivar of columnar European hornbeam being my favorite of the various cultivars (a cultivar is a variety of tree discovered by a grower deliberately looking for variations within a population of trees and then propagating, usually by cuttings, that tree because of its atypical but desired qualities.)  The ‘Frans Fontaine’ cultivar tends to get about 25 feet tall and 6 feet wide, tucking into the corner of a foundation bed nicely or making a nice focal point in a larger bed.  They also look great in a formal row.  I first became aware of this tree when the Dixon Garden, under the direction of Dale Skaggs, planted an allee (a walkway or avenue lined on both sides with trees) of them a few years ago.  With alternate oblong-ovate leaves with rounded base and acute tip, pale green in spring, dark green in summer, and pale yellow in the fall, the canopy forms a dense oval of overlapping leaves that flutter in breezes and come across like an impressionist painting from even short distances.

 

Row of small columnar European hornbeams, likely ‘Frans Fontaine,’ planted at The Dixon Gallery and Gardens in Memphis, Tennessee by landscape architect, Dale Skaggs.

Though ‘Frans Fontaine’ gets larger in other climates, in our climate it tends to be more restrained, seldom getting much larger than 25 feet tall and 6 feet wide.  Unusually, the tree is tolerant of extreme pruning, some horticulturalists pruning the limbs all the way back to the trunk once each year to keep it even narrower than it already is.  It is not infrequently used as a screen or hedge, similar to how english hornbeams are used at one of Martha Stewart’s homes, as described here:

http://www.themarthablog.com/2013/09/sculpting-an-english-hornbeam-hedge.html

 

Goldspire Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba ‘Blagon’) is a new cultivar of an old favorite.  Ginkgos have long been regarded as the oldest species in continuous existence on the planet, in either kingdom, with some fossils of ginkgo leaves as much as 270 million years old.  They have unique fan shaped leaves leafing out pale green in the spring, darkening, and then turning a striking fluorescent yellow in the fall just before leaf drop.  With a large genome of over 10 billion DNA nucleobase letters and over 41,000 predicted genes (the human genome has around 3 billion) the plant has excellent disease resistance and general all-around toughness, having lived through more existential threats than any other plant alive.  Though the species can get over 100 feet tall, the Goldspire cultivar (‘Blagon’) tends to be much smaller, 15-20 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide.

 

Because the cultivar was only introduced in 2010, coming from France, the tree is hard to find.  I have sold a handful to customers in Memphis but I don’t know where they are planted.  So, just like any new cultivar, it is a risk, since there is not much history to go on.  But, given the success of other ginkgo varieties and cultivars, and the benefits of an unusually small cultivar, perfectly sized for tight urban confines, it seems worth the risk.  If it proves itself over the next couple of years, it may replace ‘Frans Fontaine’ as my favorite columnar tree.  If you want this tree, be sure to email us right away to get on the waiting list for it, as we are only expecting to be able to get a few this fall.

 

Persian Spire Ironwood (Parrotia persica ‘JL Columnar’) is an even newer cultivar than Goldspire Ginkgo!  Discovered by John Lewis of JLPN Nursery in Salem, Oregon in 2013, it is an unusually slow growing ironwood, upright and columnar in shape, topping out at under 15 feet.  But, the most unique thing about this tree is its foliage, especially in fall, when it takes on purple, orange, and red hues, sometimes all on the same leaf, and holding onto the tree for quite awhile after the color changes, before fall abscission (leaf drop).  Read more about this great new cultivar on the the Pacific Northwest International Society of Arboriculture site: http://pnwisa.org/2017/06/persian-spire-upright-ironwood-parrotia-persica-jl-columnar-p-a-f/

Persian Spire Ironwood trees have an unusual colored edge when they first leaf out but become solid green as the summer progresses, finally evolving into beautiful multi-hued fall color.

As of this writing, Urban Earth has sold a total of 3 of this plant and has one in stock, all in 15 gallon containers, about 6 feet tall.  2 have been planted at an apartment complex across from Ardent Studios on Madison and one has been planted at a private residence.  We hope to get a few more this fall but don’t expect this cultivar to be easy to get for a few years.  There is no question that anyone who planted one of these trees this year would have one of the rarest trees planted in Memphis, for at least a few years.

Slender Silhouette Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua ‘Slender Silhouette’) is the tallest of all of the trees referenced in this article.  Growing as tall as 60 feet and as wide as four feet, it more commonly tops out at 50 feet with a width of 3 feet.  It is also the quickest growing.  Though it is used in landscapes in Memphis in a variety of ways, one of the best ways I have seen it used is as a corner piece to soften the edge of a two story home in Germantown.  Read more about this tree here: http://www.hortmag.com/plants/plants-we-love/slender-silhouette-sweetgum

Lindsey’s Skyward Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Lindsey’s Skyward’) has been around long enough, at least 16 years, to prove itself to be a great success in the Memphis area.  Though it is a conifer, it is, in fact, deciduous, but tolerating wet feet better than most.  A dwarf, it gets up to 20 feet tall and 6 feet wide.  A truly lovely tree, though this author does not have much experience with it, it is one of Greg Touliatos’s favorites.

Lindsey’s Skyward Bald Cypress Trees available for sale at Urban Earth Garden Center in Memphis, Tennessee August 9, 2017.

 

Mushashino Zelkova (Zelkova seratta ‘Musashino’) was named the “2016 Urban Tree of the Year” by the Society of Municipal Arborists.  Meant primarily to be a tough street tree, it can also be used, like all columnar trees, as focal points in the landscape, as allees, and as screens.  Though too new of a tree to know for sure, it is said that it “has the genetic potential to reach 45 feet in height and 15 feet in width at maturity,” with orange/red leaves in fall, with leaves in an oval shape and serrated at the edges, reminiscent of a hornbeam’s leaves.  Read more about this new tree of great promise here: https://www.amerinursery.com/plants/sma-announces-its-2016-urban-tree-of-the-year-zelkova-serrata-musashino/

 

Regal Prince Oak (Quercus x warei ‘Long’ REGAL PRINCE) is perhaps the fattest of the trees described in this article, though not the tallest, getting up to around 45 feet and 20 feet wide near maturity.  The older leaves turn a beautiful red in the fall after the tree has matured for a few years in the landscape.  Look here to find a good concise history of this tree, well proven in the Memphis area: https://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/quercus-xwarei-oak-regal-prince-01-22-2016.aspx

Arnold Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipefera ‘Arnold’) is an excellent cultivar of our state tree.  It is a compact solution for anyone who wants to show their loyalty to Tennessee but has too small of a yard for a full size tulip poplar.  Most commonly, you can expect this tree to mature at around 25 feet tall and 8-10 feet wide in the Memphis area, though it might get taller in other parts of the world.  Its blooms are yellow-green, tulip shaped, beginning in late spring through the summer.

 

The author, John Jennings has been manager of Urban Earth Garden Center since June 1, 2016.  Before that he was a self-employed landscaper for 8 years, having previously worked as both a real estate lawyer and a drug counselor in previous lives.  He grew up in the South Carolina low country, learning to garden in the fertile soil of Copes Island, a small barrier island near Beaufort, in Jasper County, the famed land of Pat Conroy.  He was taught the basics of planting by his step-father, Wade, his mother, Melissa, and his father, Karl.  Though both of his parents grew up in Memphis, and he spent vacations visiting his maternal grandparents, Richard and Diana Allen in Memphis, he did not become a resident of the city until he finished college in 1994.  He left South Carolina at the age of 14 to attend The McCallie School for Boys, in Chattanooga, Tennessee, graduating in 1990, before getting a degree in English from the University of Richmond, in Virgina,in 1994, finally graduating from the University of Memphis Law School in 1997.  He has a 10 year old son named Henry.